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Thread: New years resolution

  1. #71
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    Yes, its International Rebuild a Birfield Joint Day. I've erected a beer tent, theres music and theres likely gonna be face painting (albeit with EP2 grease). Name:  IMG_20170611_113017_778.jpg
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    Im quitely hopeful- between showers, Sunday roast, procuring a big socket,- to have replaced diff pinion seals, new wheel bearings , new knuckle bearings and all the rest of seals and gaskets in the hub.

  2. #72
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    Getting the Birfield seperated with a scaffold tube is very satisfying. One of the wee wire sacraficial snap ring broke, I went round every car parts place in Newry for a replacement to no avail. Then I realised the hoop on my keyring was the same diameter!! Theres a bush mechanic fix if there ever was. Likewise if you do not have a scaff tube or pvc pipe lying about check the chasis rails for thru tubes, I recall using that technique with the troopie. Trying to get that wee snap ring back in its groove by myself on a benchtop was a "thats it for the day" moment. So i hada use a bench vice to hold the outer shaft and a smelly teenager to help pin in the rings whilst I held and pressed in the inner shaft. Anyways, I didnt take any photos all that. Heres some other photies though of recent workings....Name:  IMG_20170617_165314_979.jpg
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Size:  479.8 KB Birfield at home. New inner axle oil seal, new knuckle bearings, new wiper seals etc.
    Name:  IMG_20170617_165241_453.jpg
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Size:  740.2 KB well after the Coke Pepsi challenge I took the wire wheel to the steering.then applied the rust eatter stuff on it. I removed the 2 copper bolts otherwise the acid may have attacked them? I wanna know why copper was used to hold the steering column to the steering box.Was it some safety feature, so in a front impact the bolts shear , thus not spearing the driver with the column?
    Name:  IMG_20170617_165218_466.jpg
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Size:  520.0 KB I made sure to pump in WD40 into the rubber boots around the brake bellcrank before removing, or else they would have torn off such was the aluminium oxidiation crude in there. This photo is post wire brushing. Its amazing that Toyota had steel aluinium contact on such a critical bit of kit. They apparently still hadthis on 80 series handbrakes as well.
    Name:  IMG_20170617_165512_554.jpg
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Size:  310.3 KB whilst stripping the rear axle it took hours to get one drum off. Sure enough the brake was stuck as the inner guts had failed. I found the wee wire had snapped and i put it dwn to the worn down sharp edge on this segented brake pulley the wire rests on. Something had worn down a very sharp edge on it. 35 Mister Toyota in Belfast wanted for that tiny part.Pah, i ended up finding someone in Amman, Jordan on ebay, still cost me 18. Hehe, it arrived in quite an oversized box.
    Name:  IMG_20170617_165440_266.jpg
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Size:  373.5 KB all the nasty bits that resulted in a stuck rear brake. The wee pin was corroded by the Aluminium/steel chemical reaction, again that appears to be a Toyota specific part, lets hope they dont cost 35ea.and that its ioninised plated. Im going to check what(if any ) grease I can pack the rubber cover of the bellcrank with.
    Last edited by TONKA; 17th June 2017 at 05:57 PM.

  3. #73
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    What a great few days weather we've been having. All good for annoying neighbours with exceptionally loud equipment.
    I've sandblasted the eyes of the springs , the cheapy no name chinesey gun outstripped the Lidl Parkside one.
    Painted the hubs
    Stripped down the free wheel hubs off a LJ70 and painted them to replace the ones on the 40.
    Hunted for tierod end rubber booties to no avail.
    Got 5 spare wheel studs
    Rummaged thru my storage locker and found all sorts of wee useful bits n' pieces instead of finding tyre irons and my torque wrench.( I wanna split the rims for shot blasting, and torque the things up on the front axle)

    Im on the look out for the following....

    Split rims
    Rear upper panels
    New roof
    Rear doors
    5 speed gearbox for a B engine.

    Anyone got them give me a shout.

  4. #74
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    I had a couple of visitors on Sunday 2 lads on motorbikes followed me home from the HUBB explorers weekend in Fermanagh. John an Irish fella living in Dubai wants a BJ40 to go allong with his Lightweight recoiless gun landrover. So he got to see mine and all the rust spots to look out for. Massim from Palestine came allong for the cruise. Hes been round most of the worlds countries. Unfortunately i couldn't find any Palestinan or Isreali flags flying tor him :-). And he will be doing North Cape himself soon enough so was all questions. ( He too has done Cape York in Australia)

    Talking of the HUBB explorers weekend. I think my talk went well, given the number of people coming up to me for the craic after.

  5. #75
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    Busy last 2 days.

    Gbox out,
    Engine out,
    Last of wiring loom, fuel lines and brake pipes out
    Free hubs fitted
    Mud n crud cleaned out from inside chasis
    Rear spring hanger gusset plates removed
    Rear angled chasis brackets removed
    Rear x member removed
    Name:  IMG_20170628_223620_993.jpg
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    Name:  IMG_20170628_223542_261.jpg
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    Last edited by TONKA; 28th June 2017 at 10:43 PM.

  6. #76
    Cruiser Fan Nailer's Avatar
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    Your flying at it now Tonka. Did you consider galvanising the chassis?

  7. #77
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    Dammit, i knew 'chasis' didnt look right, even as i was typing it. Yeah today i will be investigating the fabricating of the bits i removed. Then look at galvanising. Im surprised how lightweight the chassis is. Given galvanising is charged by weight it could be a cheap prospect. Though theres a bit of work needed to ready it. Renew them pieces i removed, hmm and haa over removing the outriggers and bracketry, shotblast, hoke out all the sand in joints and crevices, fill in captive nuts with fire cement or body filler.

  8. #78
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    Silicone is the recommended filler for galvanising. All nuts will need to betapped when done. The chassis number is a bit more difficult to preserve.

  9. #79
    Cruiser Fan TONKA's Avatar
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    Yep, silicone is the way for masking off internal threads. Before i send off the main chassis i will send some smaller pieces and test the, fire cement body filler and silicon. One old hand told me the body filler stays intact but crumbles away after the hot dip. Ive had a 2 week holiday from the build. But finally the body patches turn up, and im getting a couple of wee things from toyota in enniskillen, ive also ordered wee light bits from Amayama, Amayama lists and sells some OEM bits that Toyota say are discontinued, though i suspect the enniskillen parts man didnot look beyond the Belgium toyota warehouse. it appears Amayama have the genuine chassis brackets i need, though i will still try get them made up locally. Name:  IMG_20170713_170448_561.jpg
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    Name:  IMG_20170713_170518_251.jpg
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    Ah theres a few tweeks needed on these , but it should work out. Just Don't be expectting any sudden bodywork photos too soon, i still only have a dust covered arc welder.
    Last edited by TONKA; 13th July 2017 at 05:23 PM.

  10. #80
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    Two good websites to check out are

    Megazipparts.com and partsoqu.com - Have ordered from both with no issues. Even things like the original tool bags are available on one of the sites. Shipping is a little rich if your only buying small bits but if you were buying a load of fittings say its reasonable.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to dewi For This Useful Post:

    TONKA (15th July 2017)

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